Roger Vivier – SchuhWERKE
22.03. – 02.11.2014 (extended until 07.12.2014)
« Christian Dior – Shoes Created by Roger Vivier » – The creator of the New Look would never have allowed anyone other than a legendary shoe designer sign his name next to his. This is proof of the great esteem Christian Dior held in Roger Vivier.
Vivier was a student of fine arts when he found a part-time job in a shoe factory that belonged to someone in the family, which explains the characteristically sculptural style of the shoes he created all throughout his career. He invented the Stiletto Heel, the Comma-Heel, the Shock-Heel and many others that defied the laws of gravity. He dreamed up delicious little silk shoes decorated with feathers and pearls for Princess Soraya, Marlene Dietrich and many others, and it was Vivier who gave Brigitte Bardot her thigh-high boots to go with her Harley-Davidson.
From the 1930s on, as designer for Miller and Delman in New York, Vivier revolutionized the North American shoe market. All of his creations were realized on behalf of Laboremus, a subsidiary of the tannery Heyl’sche Lederwerke in Worms-Liebenau, the head office of which was at Place Vendôme in Paris, a stone’s throw away from the great Ritz Hôtel.
DLM German Leather and Shoe Museum Offenbach for the first time presents a treasure hidden in its Roger Vivier collections until now: 40 prototypes of the master dating from the 1930s, bringing to light the youthful work of Roger Vivier, a period that has not yet really been explored.
The unique shoes from the House of Dior, those created under the label “Roger Vivier for Saks Fifth Avenue” and the exceptional models on loan from Roger Vivier in Paris, the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation and the Christian Dior Museum in Granville are so many windows opening onto the universe of a great name in fashion of the 20th century. The exhibition presents over 100 works, including two dresses of Christian Dior, which will be shown in alternation.
The Exhibition Catalogue:
ROGER VIVIER: SchuhWERKE
The delicate creations that the genius shoe artist devised for great names of the fashion world in the 1950s and 1960s have been publicized many times. But who knows of the formative years of a shoe designer that found his calling at a very early age? The DLM’s collection boasts 40 prototypes from the ‘wild years’, the 1930s. These are presented at the DLM for the first time ever and together with the finest models for Soraya and Queen Elizabeth II, for Catherine Deneuve, Brigitte Bardot and Marlene Dietrich, illustrate the life work of a master that left his mark on the fashion world of the 20th century throughout the world.
The 1930s: Roger Vivier for Laboremus, Paris – Conquering the North American market
1) Roger Vivier – Life and formative years
2) Heyl’sche Lederwerke Worms-Liebenau
3) S.A. Laboremus at Place Vendôme, Paris
4) America loves French chic – Vivier’s model shoes for the USA
1950’s – 1990’s: Roger Vivier for Roger Vivier - Delman, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and haute couture
1) One label and two names: Christian Dior and Roger Vivier
2) Roger Vivier for Saks Fifth Avenue and his own label over the course of time
3) The exhibition at the Louvre – A powerful late work
2003 – present day: Bruno Frisoni for Roger Vivier Renaissance of a brand and a style
Catalogue Hardcover with soft touch cover. 106 pages, 94, in part whole-page color plates.
€25, plus postage.
Exhibition booklet with translations in Dutch and English (only text).
€5, plus postage.
Catalogue available in the Museum Shop. Orders can be made to info (at) ledermuseum.de